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An intro to my 3-week Kenya itinerary
When my friend Mollie suggested we meet half way around the world (again) for another travel trip together, the answer was always going to be yes. Mollie and I met over a decade ago when we volunteered in Ghana, and after Mollie moved to New Zealand – and most recently the Soloman Islands to teach – we seem to have developed a tradition, to meet eachother in the middle and travel together. The last time it was the Phillipines, but this time, it was going to be Kenya.
We decided we would travel a little after the safari and this completed the trip. To date, it will go down as one of the best holidays I’ve ever had, and I had to share it with you – and also this means, when my mum is asking me a million questions about what I did, I can just point her in the direction of this blog.
From watching lions eat a zebra in the Maasai Mara to experiencing sunset on a dhow boat in Lamu, every day on this trip was unique and exciting – and to share that with my best friend, made it all the more memorable. This 3-week Kenya itinerary blends adventure, wildlife and rest, taking you from safari plains and lakeside lodges to palm-fringed beaches and all-inclusive resorts.
Whether you’re planning your first trip to Kenya or dreaming of returning, this 3-week itinerary covers everything: where to stay, how to get around, and the best cafés, restaurants and moments that made it unforgettable.
Route overview: Nairobi → Maasai Mara → Naivasha → Amboseli → Tsavo → Watamu → Lamu → Nairobi
Packing Tips for Kenya
Firstly, make sure you’ve got a list from your safari company about what you will need for game drives. It’s usually chilly in the early morning and the evening when the sun goes down, but between those times it’s boiling hot. For the ultimate travel essentials packing list, don’t forget to have a look here. Specifically for Kenya, a few basic tips:
Safari: Neutral-coloured clothes, hat, light layers, binoculars, sunscreen, reusable water bottle, aftersun, cotton bandana or small light scarf, sunglasses, tank tops, safari trousers.
After your safari: Swimsuits, cover-ups, long skirt, long shirts to cover your shoulders and chest, t shirts, sandals, beach bag, beach towel.
Health & Safety: Jabs (potentially Yellow Fever if needed), malaria tablets (check if necessary), travel insurance, apply for eVisa in advance.
The Ultimate 3-Week Kenya itinerary
Days 1–2: Nairobi
Stay: Glee Nairobi
Highlights: Sheldrick Trust Elephant Orphanage in Nairobi Safari Park (book tickets in advance!), The Giraffe Centre, The Forest Adventure Centre (longest zipline in East Africa)
Taxi/Private Tour: Maxwell Obell
I organised an airport transfer directly with Glee Nairobi and it was comfortable and safe. The hotel is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever stayed, and as I was waiting for Mollie to arrive the following morning, I spent a day relaxing by the pool, booked our massages, and had trouble choosing which restaurant to eat at. There are three restaurants, a cafe, a rooftop restaurant and bar, a club and even a swim up bar in the pool too to enjoy while you’re sunbathing.
After much research, I found a great private driver called Max (Maxwell Obell) who collected us the following day for a private one-day tour around Nairobi.
We didn’t realise he also provides safari tours, which I’m sure would be amazing because he’s the best guy ever. It felt comfortable, as two women, to have someone to rely on like Maxwell.
He let us know that the Zipline we had planned to visit was closed, so we adjusted our day because of his advice which we appreciated. Having said that, do make sure you have a look if it’s available when you arrive, because it looks soo fun and is the longest zipline in East Africa!
Maxwell took us to this beautiful elephant sanctuary – and told us we HAD to book tickets in advance which we were grateful for. The sanctuary looks after orphaned and injured elephants, rescuing them from different national parks where they are often found alone, having been rejected by a herd. Maxwell even took us to the best viewing spot ahead of the crowd so we could watch the elephants eat. Afterwards, he took us to Kobe Tough, an amazing organisation where a group of women (mainly single mothers, orphans and widows) make beautiful products from ceramic beads and sell them to make a living.
Lunch: We asked Max to surprise us with a restaurant that had great views, and he didn’t disappoint. We visited Matbronze Cafe, an off-the-beaten-track restaurant (with an art gallery it seems) where you can eat in the beautiful gardens. They offer vegetarian options, juices, GREAT coffee and even greater Eton mess. Thank you Maxwell for our wonderful day out! We love you!
SAFARI TIME: Organised via Axis Safari Company
Days 3-5: Maasai Mara
Stay: Neptune Mara Rianta Luxury Camp
Highlights: Game drives, sunrise balloon safari with champagne breakfast
It took us AGES to decide which safari company we wanted to book with. Safaris aren’t cheap, but some were insanely expensive, while others were affordable but didn’t tick off everything we wanted to do. We decided to choose a mid-luxury safari and booked through Axis Safari Company, who were incredibly helpful, and let us add hotels we wanted to stay in too. We had the BEST safari driver too, so Amos if you’re reading this, thank you for everything. No, I’m not getting paid to say Axis, but seeing as I’ve mentioned them, I wonder if they’ll give me a free safari next time? C’monnnn.
** Top Tip. Make a mental note of which hotels offer full board, all inclusive, half board etc. Most of our hotels were full board, but we paid for drinks and one was all inclusive. **
Our first hotel was the Neptune Mara Rianta Luxury Camp. When we walked to our luxury tent outside, spoilt with the services of our lovely room assistant, who was there for anything we needed (including coffee in the early hours and hot water bottles placed in our beds at night because it was cold) we spotted a hippo just chilling in the lake outside our room.
We had a lot of early mornings to make the most of the safari and it was COLD. You’ll need to layer up and take a jumper and trousers, before you peel everything else off when the sun is up.
Over the first few days, we saw so many animals in their natural habitat. I really liked how our driver ensured we didn’t get too close to give the animals space – unlike many other safari 4x4s who got way too close, just to give people a better view which I didn’t agree with. We saw sleeping lions, and other lions that wandered around. We saw cheetahs relaxing in the shade, hyenas who we were told are the last in the food chain to eat the pray – bones and all – and elephants with their babies, to name a few.
The following day, we had booked a sunrise hot balloon safari, which our lovely room assistant woke us up for, and we enjoyed watching the animals from above – although getting in and out of that hot air balloon basket was a little scary. We were then treated to a champagne breakfast and I paid extra for a video that was recorded of the morning. Pure magic. Another couple of days of animal watching, finished with sundowners (cocktails at sunset with snacks) by a bonfire. Perfection!
Day 6: Lake Naivasha
Stay: Naivasha Kongoni Lodge
Highlights: Boat ride among hippos and flamingos, Crescent Island
Naivasha was fantastic. We had fun watching hippos do hippo things, fed different birds and then visited Crescent Island (which you need to pay entry for). It was fun walking past zebras, giraffes and other animals relaxing in their land, and being so close to them.
We stayed only one night at Naivasha Kongoni Lodge, which had a spacious lounge and dining room with kitchen, and a smaller bedroom and bathroom. We had dinner and a very early morning breakfast there which was very tasty.
Days 7-9: Amboseli National Park
Stay: Kibo Safari Camp (booked via Axis, my own recommendation)
Highlights: Watching herds of elephants, views of Mount Kilimanjaro, Observation Hill
We left early in the morning to drive to our next accommodation which I found on social media. We were lucky enough to see a mother monkey feeding her baby right outside our luxury tent/room, and then witnessed a bunch of monkeys invade the tent next to us!
After a delicious lunch, we headed off to Amboseli National Park, known for its dust – in fact, the word literally comes from the Maa word Empusel meaning salty; dusty place, so take a thin scarf to put over your mouth and nose. The area is also famous for its postcard view of Kilimanjaro, and it doesn’t disappoint. Absolutely breathtaking. We also walked up Observation Hill, a steep climb with amazing panoramas of the surrounding landscape.
Day 10: Maasai Village Visit / Hildana Lodge
Stay: Hildana Lodge (booked via Axis, my own recommendation)
Highlights: Remote setting, stargazing, pure peace
Amos decided to fit in our Maasai Village visit before we arrived at our next destination. We learnt about their traditions, visited where they lived and took part in a ceremony – in fact I’m pretty sure one of the men wanted to marry me, but I politely declined the offer…eventually.
We spent the rest of the day relaxing at the phenomenal Hildana Lodge, with cocktails by the pool, and views over their private watering hole. The watering hole is where animals go to drink in nature and it was one of the most amazing experiences viewing it from all angles, whether that’s by the pool or when we ate dinner. Hildana really feels like a secret, despite finding it on TikTok. It’s quiet, off-grid, and offers 360 degree views of the African wilderness.
That night, we went on a nighttime safari led by a Gladis, wonderful female guide and a guide in-training. We watched another watering hole, where different herds of elephants (and other animals) came to drink, protecting their babies before wandering off, with snacks and drinks under the stars. After we returned to Hildana, we ate dinner and watched more elephants drink with our food at the hotel’s watering hole. It was very special.
Days 11-12: Tsavo East National Park
Stay: Voi Safari Lodge
Highlights: Seeing lots of little lion cubs waiting for their mums to return from hunting
After a great morning safari with Hildana and a tasty breakfast, we drove with Amos onto the next destination and accomodation.
Voi Safari Lodge was okay, it did the job per-se, but we chose a cheaper hotel to save some money. The hotel restaurant had views over its own watering hole where we saw a herd of elephants trumpet to another to protect the little baby, and that definitely made the stay worth it. We then ventured out to Tsavo East National Park, known for its striking red-orange soil. It’s well known that the elephants throw this red-orange soil onto their backs to protect their skin from both the sun and bugs. They are known as the Red Elephants of Tsavo.
We were lucky enough to see not just elephants, but an entire pride (if not two or three) of little lion cubs, who playfully jumped (and fell) off tree branches, fought with each other and waited for the mums to return with prey. We were the first 4×4 to see them too, because of the knowledge of Amos, our guide. Whilst exiting, we then saw an elephant carcass, being devoured by a lion.
Amos then dropped us off at the train station, as we’d asked Axis, our safari company, to organise our train tickets to our next destination. They also booked the onward travel from Mombasa train station to our hotel, Mida Creek, in a place called Watamu. We were so sad to leave but made the most amazing memories.
Days 13-16: Watamu
Stay: The Mida Creek Hotel
Highlights: Flamingo boat tour (booked via hotel), cocktails at Lichthaus (book in advance), Papa Remo restaurant and beach
After dusty safari days, the coast feels like exhaling and it was good to move to a different destination. Watamu is laid-back and colourful, with sunset cocktails, white beaches and friendly locals. Located a small boat ride away from the road, The Mida Creek Hotel was a simply beautiful hotel to relax in, stunning decor, a wonderful owner and great food.
They offered boat trips (included in the price) to Lichthaus, a bar on the opposite side of the creek, where people visit to watch the sun go down with cocktails. You will need to book ahead at this bar as the private nets you can sit in get busy. The hotel room itself was comfortable, modern and the sunset boat trip they organised to see the pink flamingos was such fun. Papa Remo was a restaurant we ate at which is worth noting down, with views over the white beach where we sunbathed after. Other recommendations include Sardegna 2 Beach, a beautiful tidal sandbar, and dining at Crab Shack (book 24 hours in advance) which offers glorious views.
Days 15–17: Shela Village / Lamu Old Town (Lamu Island)
Stay: Jua House
Getting there: Flight from Malindi airport to Manda airport (also known as Lamu airport)
Highlights: Shell village strolls, exploring Lamu Old Town, seeing the Floating Bar & Restaurant, eating cake at 4pm from our hotel rooftop
** Top Tip. Lamu has a predominantly Muslim community, and residents expect visitors to dress modestly**
Malindi airport is the most convenient airport if you’re flying from Watamu onwards. I must warn you, the airport is small and doesn’t have much in it. We flew from Malindi to Lamu, and had pre-booked a transfer (with both a taxi and a boat) to Jua House, located in the traditional Shela Village, Lamu.
When we travelled across to the jetty by boat, we also noticed a floating bar in the middle of the channel! We were recommended to stay in Shela, because it is traffic-free, and beautiful, whereas Lamu Old Town is slightly more chaotic and not as pretty. Shela has a bohemian feel, and retains its beautiful Swahili architecture. Jua House, the bed and breakfast we had booked, had an incredible interior design throughout, emphasising both the Swahili woodcraft and African style, with modern elements. There was free cake to enjoy at 4pm from their spectacular rooftop and the breakfast was delicious too.
We spent our first full day here exploring the village. There aren’t so many shops, cafes or restaurants, so it wasn’t hard to find good places to visit. We drank great coffee at Bahari Coffee, watch the donkeys roam around, explored some of the stores like Lulu Stories (where I bought some stunning mugs) and ate dinner at the Peponi Hotel which our hotel manager recommended. I had been told by a friend to try the hotel’s signature cocktail Old Pal, but I didn’t end up doing so. The hotel manager walked us back to our accommodation which was appreciated, because after the sun goes down, there’s not so much light in Shela, and it’s easy to get lost.
The following day, we booked a tour in Lamu Old Town, with a guide we’d found on Tripadvisor. Kassim was excellent. We took a small boat from the jetty to the Old Town, and he took us around the small neighbourhood, explaining about its architectural features and history. If you want to book with him, send him a message on Instagram @kassimtoursholiday and you can find more information here: Kassim Tours & Holiday Dreams.
Days 18-21: Manda Island
Stay: The Majlis Resort
Getting there: Booked transfer boat through The Majlis Resort
Highlights: Relaxing at the pool, eating at the many restaurants, sunset cocktails, incredible breakfast, dhow sailing at sunset
After booking our transfer boat across from the jetty in Shela to Manda Island, we arrived at The Majlis Resort; a hotel that Mollie found and I fell in love with. It’s a luxurious hotel, ideal for honeymooners and two single best friends who are assumed to be on honeymoon.
The Majlis Resort is quite literally the most stunning hotel. There’s incredible greenery, trees and plants surrounding the property with Swahili design found in both the interiors and the architecture, three beautiful restaurants, a clothing boutique with elegant designs on sale, three pools, one being an infinity pool with sensational views, a spa and more.
We spent our remaining days eating, drinking, relaxing and one evening, chose not to book a dhow sunset cruise through the hotel, but through our friend Kassim, who was our tour guide in Lamu Old Town. It was slightly cheaper and Kassim and his friend let us play our own music, and bring our drinks on the boat. They also took great photos and videos which our mums, Helen & Helen, greatly appreciated.
Situated just ten minutes from the airport (another boat transfer you can book through the hotel), our final day was spent eating a great breakfast before we jumped onto the small boat to Manda airport. From there, we took a connecting flight from Manda to Nairobi, where we both were flying in different directions, me to London and Mollie back to New Zealand.
Final Reflection
Spending three weeks with my best friend, who lives on the other side of the world to me now, was the most special time. There’s something about looking into how animals act in the wilderness, in their own habitat, with nothing but the wind interrupting the silence that can’t be described.
To share those moments, with someone who loves experiencing new countries and cultures as much as myself only adds to it. These hotels, the animals, the people we shared our time with, the children of Kenya, the tribes of Kenya, the history of Kenya, coffee in bed, sunrises and sunsets, continuous laughter, and getting to know so many people makes this one of, if not the best trip, I’ve ever had.
I also know with the amount of research we did, from finding a safe, private driver in Nairobi, for two girls travelling solo, to finding a reputable tour guide in Lamu, in an area there aren’t so many, will be on so many people’s lists. I hope these recommendations help you and I hope you have the most amazing time in this fabulous country.
Let me know if you end up using this itinerary in the comments below!